The Walls of Jo’burg

November 16, 2007

by James Collins

I’ve grown to like Johannesburg over the last month. I’ve gotten to know its quirks and charms. I’ve learned about the different neighborhoods and how shacks can be minutes from mansions. I’ve been to many of the malls, where the upper and middle classes mingle, and I’ve been to several of the townships, where the Field Band Foundation comes to life. I’ve become used to frequent power outages and broken robots (the South African term for traffic lights). I even managed to purchase and register a car here, which is a true accomplishment (involving six trips to the licensing office). There are moments when I’m reminded of Los Angeles or even Mexico City as I drive through the various neighborhoods tucked away in my car. But, Jozi, as it is affectionately called, is definitely unique.

I’ve been staying with Sally Young and her husband, Bill. Sally is the financial manager for the Field Band Foundation, who very kindly agreed to house me for a month while I get my bearings. It’s been great getting to know them and learning about South Africa through their eyes. Bill has lived and traveled all over Africa and has abundant stories to tell about his adventures, often involving lions, rebels and Land Rovers. Sally, an avid gardener, dog lover and devotee to the Field Band Foundation has shown me around and taught me a thing or two about South African culture.

There are many beautiful things in the city, like the brilliant jacaranda trees which have shed their purple blossoms all over Joburg’s rolling hills. But, the ubiquitous security walls, alarms, and electric fences have taken some getting used to. Nearly every house has an enormous wall, an armed security service and plenty of supplementary gadgets designed to keep intruders out. Walking around, one gets the definite impression that “mi casa” is “mi casa”.

The security measures are quite understandable considering the staggering crime levels in South Africa (and Joburg in particular), but it’s a difficult thing to have to live with. People are locking themselves in as they attempt to lock others out. I haven’t seen any crime since I’ve been here, but I’ve heard plenty of terrible stories, and an “on edge” feeling can set in at times. Unfortunately, these issues have caused many South Africans to emigrate to places like the UK, Australia and the US. One guy I met called it the South African “brain drain”. But, I’m impressed with the South Africans who have stuck around and go about their daily lives refusing to live in fear. I think it’s important to understand the crime problem and to take necessary precautions, but being paranoid is like giving in.

There is no excuse for crime, in my mind, and especially not violent crime. This scourge in South Africa needs to be eliminated. The economy is growing and there are many positive things happening, but crime is holding this country back in a major way. I am encouraged when I think about how much New York City has changed. I’m always proud to tell people here how safe New York has become since the dark days of the 1980’s. But, there are more complex factors here given the enormous unemployment rate (25% is a generous estimate) and the huge disparity in wealth between the rich and the poor. I think it can be done nevertheless, and I truly believe that initiatives like the Field Band Foundation are helping to nip the problem in the bud. If children are given opportunities from an early age and taught the value of work and education, crime rates will have no choice but to fall.

Sally and Bill have been wonderful hosts. I’ve really enjoyed staying with them and their amazing dogs, Harry (the golden retriever) and Jackie (the spaniel).

My blue Jeep may not be the most fuel efficient car in the world, but I plan to use its 4X4 capabilities and I promise to do some good things for the environment to offset my carbon footprint.

Sally calls this “my tree” because I always comment about it when we drive by. It’s a jacaranda with bougainvillea climbing up it.

Here is one of the many parking guards that you find in parking lots around the city. They watch over your car while you are shopping, generally in return for a five rand tip (about $.75).