by Aaron Shneyer

Hi Friends,

This has been a very hard week. From Jerusalem I can’t hear the rockets or the gunshots but what is happening in Gaza and in the nearby Israeli towns is felt in every corner and seen on every face. For me, the most frustrating part is that many people here are only concerned with the loss of life on their own side. Why does our national identity come so far before our human identity? Over 115 people have lost their lives this week. I sincerely hope we as humans can find compassion for each other and stop this bloodshed.

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by Aaron Shneyer

Yes. It’s time for an update! Heartbeat is off to a great start in 2008. Despite a “blizzard” and security precautions for President Bush that temporarily shut down Jerusalem, we’ve managed to hold three fantastic meetings. Kela, Yael, Sameera, Tamer, Roi, Fouad, Kareen, Samer, Mohamed, Dana, Ron, Isam, and Rami are VERY excited to e-meet you all soon…

The quick low-down:
The first meeting was mostly intros, names, where we’re from, the kind of music we listen to. Each musician played or sang us a little sample of the music they’re into. My feeling is that people left excited, but still a bit confused as to what this experience is going to be like. I continue to insist that the experience is exactly what the musicians choose to make it… Our second meeting was at the Sabreen Studio in Sheikh Jarrah, East Jerusalem, right around the corner from the Palestinian National Theater. We took the first couple of hours to get to know each other a bit more and then we split into small groups (about 4 people per group) for a songwriting activity. They came up with some pretty nice stuff. After about two hours, we cut the meeting a bit short so we could walk down to the aforementioned theater and see Wissam Murad and his band in concert. Wissam is a fantastic Oud player and singer with a unique style, blending new and old sounds. The show was stunning. You can check him out at www.wissammurad.com

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by Phally Chroy

This entry is about Bosba Panh, a little girl with a not-so-little voice. It is her innocence, unique vocals, amazing talent, and strong sound that has been floating throughout Cambodia for quite some time. There is an interesting thing about this little girl, Bosba, that so many people find magical. Apparently she sings renditions of popular, iconic songs in both English and French, and then adapts them to Khmer.

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by Larnies Bowen

Unbeknownst to me, I arrived justo a tiempo for the beginning of the busy season here in Panama City. The holidays were quickly approaching and January marked the beginning of summer so (affordable) housing was/is scarce in this Latin American hotspot. All the newspapers and websites have been listing apartments at upwards of $600 (yes that is USD). And I’m sorry, but I just couldn’t stomach forking over $600+ per month in rent in Latin America. So…I took to walking.

At the suggestion of some family friends who work in real estate, I walked around choice neighborhoods and spoke with the management, concierges, and residents of various apartment buildings in the hopes of locating a reasonably priced apartment. After much walking (and some tears), I found a decent one-bedroom apartment within my budget. It’s not in the prettiest neighborhood, but it’s centrally located—a quick quarter bus ride or $1 taxi ride to the University of Panama and everywhere else I need to be. One major drawback: it was completely unfurnished. (Apparently, in Panama when you rent an apartment you rent just that—an apartment. Most apartments don’t come with stoves or washing machines, or anything.) In fact, apartments don’t even come with lights! You have to go to an office called Edemet and put down a deposit first.

Further complicating the “settling in process” was all of the red tape concerning registering an apartment, opening up a bank account, obtaining a visa, and getting electricity in my apartment—all of which took about a month. Meaning, after it took about three weeks to locate an apartment, it took another three to four weeks until I could actually move in the apartment. I believe my realtor summed it up best when she explained “This is not the states. Everything here is un tramite…a long process.”

Click here to email Larnies with your questions or comments

The views and information presented are the Fulbright grantee’s own and do not represent the Fulbright Program or the U.S. Department of State.

by Larnies Bowen

diablorojo1 by larnies bowen

Against my fears (and the warnings of my host country contacts), a day after I touched down on Panamanian soil, I found myself stuffed onto a seat of one the glorified school buses (known as diablos rojos) that make up the public transportation system here in Panama City. Clutching the back of the seat in front of me (so much for seat belts…), I took in my surroundings.

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by Aaron Shneyer

I’m doing well. I hope you are too.

The past few weeks have been amazingly powerful and eye opening. With some frustration, I’ve learned that the important things can’t be rushed, but will take their natural course, even if that means missing some self-imposed deadlines. I had originally hoped to be sending you videos of rehearsals by now but alas…the good things take time.

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by Phally Chroy

So you may have been wondering what ever happened to the person who won the Fulbright to Cambodia?…

phally gone fishing 1

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by James Collins

I’ve grown to like Johannesburg over the last month. I’ve gotten to know its quirks and charms. I’ve learned about the different neighborhoods and how shacks can be minutes from mansions. I’ve been to many of the malls, where the upper and middle classes mingle, and I’ve been to several of the townships, where the Field Band Foundation comes to life. I’ve become used to frequent power outages and broken robots (the South African term for traffic lights). I even managed to purchase and register a car here, which is a true accomplishment (involving six trips to the licensing office). There are moments when I’m reminded of Los Angeles or even Mexico City as I drive through the various neighborhoods tucked away in my car. But, Jozi, as it is affectionately called, is definitely unique.

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by Aaron Shneyer

October is a great month to arrive in Jerusalem. In three weeks, I’ve celebrated Ramadan, Sukkot, Eid el-Fitr, Simchat Torah, a Palestinian wedding and a Sheva Brachot meal for a newly-wed Israeli couple. In some ways I might be one of the luckiest people here. As an American outsider with a wonderful network of friends from Seeds of Peace, I have a unique opportunity to spend time with all of the people here and to learn, first-hand, what life is like in their shoes. As tremendous political and social barriers usually limit interaction between Israelis and Palestinians living here, I am very grateful for the freedom to cross those barriers and get to know both sides.

One of my most memorable experiences was the Palestinian wedding last week, where I was politely forced to dance to Arabic music blasting through the street. After about 30 minutes of attempting to dance just like every other guy there, the DJ abruptly shut off the Arabic song and put on a techno song, apparently just for me. Suddenly all of the men formed a circle, ushered me into the middle and encouraged me to show off my dance moves. Normally I’d be more than happy to share my “culture” with people from another country, but tonight, as a guest of a guest, I was hoping to blend in a bit more. Either way, the people there were amazingly warm and eager to share their customs with me. And the food was delicious! It’s an experience I’ll never forget.

My project is coming along. We’ve decided to call it HEARTBEAT: JERUSALEM. This week I have meetings with school directors in East Jerusalem and at the music conservatory in Ramallah. Even though the Israeli high schools are on strike, I’m hoping to meet with the directors of various arts magnet schools here in Jerusalem over the next week. Overall, people have been very receptive to the project and I’ve had quite a few high school students very enthusiastically approach me about joining the group. The plan is to wrap up the recruitment phase within the next two weeks and hold auditions during the second week of November.

In the next update I promise to spice things up a bit more with some of the sights and sounds of J-slam. Please feel free to contact me and let me know what you’d like to see on this page. I’m interested to see who’s reading… Thanks again.

Click here to email Aaron with your questions or comments

The views and information presented are the Fulbright grantee’s own and do not represent the Fulbright Program or the U.S. Department of State.

by James Collins

When I stepped up to the counter at the airport however many days ago, I had this satisfying feeling that I had finally made it. The only thing between me and Africa was a long relaxing flight, and I like flying. But, as I handed over my itinerary, I was informed that my ticket had been revoked due to some malfunction in the reservation system. Questioning what exactly “revoked” meant, I found out that my reservation had somehow been completely cancelled and could not be retrieved. This was a bit disconcerting considering my flight was only two hours away and I was supposed to arrive in South Africa just in time for some meetings at the US embassy and to make it to the Field Band National Championships. Missing this could be a huge problem.

As I stood there nervously watching the attendant fiddle with the computer for about an hour, I wondered if this was somehow a sign that I shouldn’t go. To be honest, I was a bit nervous about leaving everything behind and the thought did cross my mind that maybe I should cancel my grants, stay home, get a job, live life as I know it, etc. I am stronger than that, but I can’t say I felt fully relieved when a ticket somehow found it’s way into my hands and I drifted onto the plane.

The plane ride managed to calm my fears and arriving was actually really exciting. When I walked out of the plane, it sort of hit me that this time I actually did make it. I was on African soil for the first time in my life and a year-long adventure was about to begin. I was shuttled to a beautiful guesthouse in Pretoria and taken to the US embassy the next day for a few introductory meetings. Despite all the stories I had heard about crime, I felt quite secure behind the guard of marines and the billowing American flag in the distance.

When I got to Johannesburg the next day, however, my feelings were a bit different. Joburg can be a pretty intimidating place. There are tall walls with electric fences and barbed wire everywhere. Security guards patrol the streets and crime seems to be a very popular topic of conversation. The first few nights in my bed, I felt a bit like a child waiting for the boogie man to jump over the wall and get me.

But, I adjusted and the boogie man scares me less now. The walls are frustrating because of what they imply, but I’ve gotten used to them. They really highlight the level of disparity between rich and poor. Ferraris, run-down shacks, fancy shopping malls, make-shift bars, mansions and beggars all live within a few meters of each other. It’s very strange, but also fascinating. I’m sure I will have much more to say about this some other day.

Expect a report on the Field Band National Championships very soon! I also promise to spice things up with lots of photos and videos in the very near future. I just need a few minutes to sit down and edit all the material I’ve been gathering. Please also send me comments! Let me know if you have any questions or if you want to see or hear anything in particular. I really want to hear what you have to say.

Click here to email James with your questions or comments

The views and information presented are the Fulbright grantee’s own and do not represent the Fulbright Program or the U.S. Department of State.